6 Feet of Red 10 Gauge wire or more (Varies depending on
the vehicle)
6 Feet of Black 10 Gauge wire or more (Varies depending
on the vehicle)
6 Feet of ¼ ID Tubing (Try to use the heavy duty type as
it can handle the heat)
Toggle Switch (optional)
Ammeter (optional) included
Auto reset breaker
Inline Fuse Connector (Optional)
30 amp relay
10 Gauge Spade Connectors (Female) and 10 Gauge round.
* 10 Gauge connectors
are colored as yellow
KOH (potassium Hydroxide)
Reservoir- This can be made from just about anything
from 3” Tubing to Acrylic but the best thing we have
found to work PVC “T” 4”x4”x2”
4 - ¼ x ¼ Hose Barbs (Straight 90 degree fittings can be
used as well)
Plumbers tape, Drill, Distilled Water, Catalyst
(electrolyte), a spray bottle, ½ teaspoon of dish soap,
¼ NPT tap( optional)
Ok, now that you have everything
needed to start, you are ready to start installation
1. Mount the HHO Dry Cell
somewhere low (I like to mount them in front of my
radiator) You may use the included brackets or
even use Metal Clamps/ Strong Wire ties. If you use any
type of metal strap make sure that you do not make a
contact with any of the Steel Plates.
2. Build your reservoir, you will
need to drill 1 hole at the bottom of the reservoir and
one hole about half way up your reservoir and screw a
(2) Hose Barb in each hole, I would recommend using
plumbers tape on the threads.
3. Flip the reservoir over so
that you can see the top, Drill the 3rd hole
at the top of the reservoir for the gas outlet, and
mount your 3rd Hose Barb there.
* If you use the reservoir that comes in the kit you
will need to Buy a ¼” pipe plug and install in the lid.
Cut the three flanges on the lid exposing the vent hole
and install the plug in the hole.
* Make sure to test everything up to this point for
leaks, you should take your time when building the
reservoir
* If you are using a thick container (I recommend PVC
4”x4”x2” T fitting) you will want to tap the hole with a
¼” NPT Tap
4. Build your secondary Bubbler
(optional but recommended) Using at least
a 6” piece of 2” PVC with cap and a cleanout cap. Glue
the cap on the bottom and glue the cleanout (screw
lid) on the top. Using the same drill you used for
the reservoir drill a hole at the bottom on the side and
one at the top (not in the lid) on the
side. Tap and install your hose barbs.
5. After your reservoir has been
tested for possible leaks and is leak free than you may
want to drill a hole for a water fill. You can use a
rubber stopper to seal the reservoir and make filling it
much easier.
6. Mount the reservoir at a
higher level than your dry cell is mounted.
7. Cut 2 pieces of your 1/4 “ID
hose to the correct length to reach your dry cell Barbs.
Attach one end to the dry cell and the other end to the
reservoir.
8. Cut another Length of the hose
and this runs from the top Barb of your reservoir to the
intake on your vehicle. ( You will need to
drill a small hole in the big hose that runs from your
air filter and attach the 4th hose barb ,
connect the hose to this, and at this point you should
have your hose complete)
*Be sure to hook the inlet on the intake as close to
the throttle body as possible, You may want to cut the
hose barb fitting on a 45 degree angle (on the part that
sticks through the air intake) This will prevent a
vacuum that could suck the cell dry and put water into
your intake
**If you are using the secondary bubbler run the hose
from the outlet of the reservoir to the bottom of the
bubbler and then to the intake.
9. Now it is time to run the 10
gauge wire—you may have an existing hole that you can
run the wire into already, If not you may have to drill
another hole the firewall
11. Find a wire that turns on and
off with the key to your vehicle, splice into that wire
and run a wire to the relay connection marked with the
number 86.
*If you are going to install a kill switch you will want
to run this wire through the switch and then to the
relay
12.Run 1 length of the
Red wire from the positive side of your battery To the
30 amp relay to the connection marked with a number 30.
* You may want to run 20-30 amp
fuse (optional) inline before the
connecting to the relay
13. Run a red wire from the relay
connection marked with the number 87 to your amp meter
inside the vehicle next run the same wire to the auto
reset breaker mounted inside the engine compartment
close to the cell (at least a 12” from the cell) then
run the wire to the positive side of the cell.
14. Run a ground wire from the
relay connection marked with the number 85 to a ground
on the vehicle
15. Run 1 length of Black wire
negative side of your battery (or to the chasse)
to the Dry Cell
16. Ok now the installation of
your unit should be complete. You are now going to Mix
the Catalyst (electrolyte) with Distilled Water – Start
with 1oz to 20oz distilled water, this depends on the
production and amps, you may need to add more –to get
high amps (The unit needs to run at 20 Amps or
less I suggest starting off cold at around 12 amps this
will let the cell run between 18-20 amps when it is
warmed up, on most vehicles)
* Once this has been mixed add to the reservoir and make
sure to cap back on
17. Now the unit should be fully
functioning and ready for a test drive—double check for
air and eater leaks at this time—BY getting a spray
bottle and ½ teaspoon of dish soap—once mixed spray on
all of your hose connectors if there are bubbles you
have a leak and this needs fixed
