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About Dry Cells

Our Dry Cell is assembled from all top of the line materials

The plates are 3.5" x 3.5" 18 gauge 316L stainless steel

The O Rings are 3/32" compressed to 1/16"

The O Rings are EPDM rubber heat resistant to 260 degrees

The Acrylic is 4"x4"x1/2 OR 7"x7"x1/2 thick rated at 300 degrees

The 2 hose barbs are 1/4"

The attachment bracket angles are aluminum

2 1/4-20 wing nuts for easy connection to the power source.

 

*****NEW DRY CELL COMPARISON VIDEOS CLICK HERE TO WATCH*****

 

 

ABOUT DRY CELLS

BUY DRY CELL

DIY KIT

COMPLETE SYSTEMS

INSTRUCTIONS

*****NEW DRY CELL COMPARISON VIDEOS*****

 

 

Please note the inlet and outlet are at the top of the cell. I do this because it is gravity feed. Why fight gravity and push the water up from the bottom? Placement of the inlet and outlet on the reservoir is important for flow. The inlet goes at the bottom of the bubbler. The weight of the water increases flow. The outlet should be connected 1/2 to 3/4 up the reservoir this also helps flow also. The secondary bubbler is recommended, but you can use a drop down "T" to catch the splash or excess water from the reservoir. It is very important to use at least a 2qt container or more to get the desired out put. The weight of the water also helps with flow. It is also important to have the reservoir directly above the cell.

 

The electrical connections (wire, switch, amp meter, relay, PWM, etc.) are all the same as a wet cell. I use a secondary bubbler, But it is not needed, it is for added safety only. I mounted using 2 self tapping screws. The bubbler I used is approximately 2qts.

 

HOW IT WORKS

This hydrogen cell design is a circulating system in which the water travels from the reservoir through the cell and then back into the reservoir.  No water pumps are needed. 

The key to this circulating system is the cell.  This cell design acts like a pump creating a self siphoning system that carries the gas and water back into the reservoir.  The reservoir stores the water that is circulated through the system as well as acts as a bubbler system separating the water from the gas and lastly helps cool operating temperatures.

 

IS BIGGER BETTER?

Please do not take our word on what your about to read. Check it out yourself, you might end up buying something that your vehicle does not need. Just because something is bigger, does not mean it works better. We can only tell you what we have honestly experienced while developing our own cells. We started out building very large wet cells way back when no one even heard of a dry cell. We found out that a vehicle only needs a small amount of HHO Gas to mix with the fuel to get great results. We also needed something that would fit any vehicle. We found it in our own design and it works!

It seems that these units just keep getting bigger and bigger every week. Could all that extra HHO gas be just a waste?

I will gladly match this small 4"x4" cell against any cell on the market today this includes any number of plates with any configuration or size and will beat them in output AMP for AMP every time.

PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING

Their are cars that get improvement without the MAP or EFIE. I tell my customers to run there vehicle for about 2 weeks, to see if there computers will adjust themselves to the HHO. If you are not happy with the results after 2 weeks start with the MAP or MAF next to see the results then finally add the EFIE. This saves the customers money if they are not needed. The HHO systems are in no way a cookie cutter item some vehicles take quite a bit of tweaking and tuning, to get them to work correctly and efficiently.

I have done 1000’s of hours of research on plate size and amps needed to be most efficient. Starting at 1” x1” plates up to 12” x 12” plates. I have narrowed it down to the 3.5” x 3.5” plates that I use. Along with many different hole sizes and configurations. At peak efficiency you can expect 1LPM from around 7.5 amps at 13.2 volts. At worst efficiency you can expect 1LPM at around 15 amps. The reason for the variable is that each vehicles charging system is going to be different even 2 of the exact same models sitting side by side. This is due to voltage and the vehicles charging system.  

There are many salesman out there that spread the gospel of more is better, this is not the case. I personally run 1- 11 plate cell on my 2002 Dodge 5.9L gas. The unit I use puts out about 1.5 LPM at around 12-16 amps and I get an increase of 30-40% MPG on the HWY and 10-15% in the CITY. These are results that 80% of my customers achieve when everything is in line and running correctly. There are a few cases on some 4-6 CYL engines that the gain was up around 80-100 MPG. Then there are a few that just see no increase this is rare but does happen, mostly due to incorrect installation. The next false gospel is that no one out there says anything about MAX amp’s that should be drawn from a vehicles alternator. 100% of the time if a customer is drawing more than 20 amps to there cell, there will be a loss in MPG every time with a stock alternator. The reason that this happens is because at over 20 amps the alternator must work harder which in turn causes the engine to work harder which takes more gas. Also if a person is producing too much HHO it cools the catalytic converter and does not allow the unspent fuel to be burned and that causes problems with the ECU. The other side effect of more than 1LPM is the fact that HHO turns back to water after it is burned up, this will cause an excess of water in the exhaust pipe which leads to rust and deterioration.

Another Question you may have is life and maintenance. The cell that I use personally has 30K miles on them. The Plates I am guessing will last at least 50K miles unless something goes terribly wrong. The only part of the cell that needs replacement are the orings roughly every 5-10K miles this will vary depending on how hot the cell runs over time. This is the cheapest part of the cell, Oring replacement kits are approximately $2.40 for 12 orings. The maintenance consists checking the water levels. I can do a 700 mile trip and use approximately 2 cups of electrolyte. It is very important to maintain a water level of at least 1qrt. This will keep the customer from what is known as boiling the cell out. When this happens steam is created and an oring will blow out. Whatever the case oring blowout or oring replacement with regular maintenance the time it takes is about 30 minutes to disassemble and reassemble the cell to be back on the road..

My advice to you before deciding on supplier is to make sure that they know what they are doing and have great customer service and warranty there items. At least 20% of my customers are from competition that sold garbage or could not answer the questions to make it work correctly, some of the competition does not even answer the phone. 30% of my customers are returning to buy for additional vehicles and friends. The other 50% are new customers. I am not saying that my cells are the best out there, but I was the first to go smaller and it is the most copied on the market.  

Dry Cell

Disassembly and/or Maintenance

 

 

Dry Cell

Assembly

 

 

If you have any questions feel free to contact me.

I will be happy to help you with any installation question you may have.

thegasmaker@ymail.com

 

Mon. - Sat.

10am to 10pm (est.)

423-312-9295

 

White Pine, TN 37890

 

 

There is a 10% discount for 10 or more items.

Custom Sizes

Thegasmaker@ymail.com

Call 423-312-9295 between 10am and 10pm est. for questions

 

MAKE SOME CASH

If you are looking to get into the HHO business,

this is the perfect product for you to resell.

They are attractive and easy to install.

You can easily resell for over $100.

We offer wholesale discounts for orders of 10 or more.

We do not charge for a distributer license.

 

Become a Distributer